Here, there are island oases, pilgrimage trails, artisans and waves - azulejos and pastéis de nata - and one should feast on all that they can; climb mountains, sip Port, meander through markets, swim, savour and walk into wilderness. Layered in history, there is a sublime sense of melancholy - an awareness of the things that have passed, matched by awe of all that remains. Warmth, colour, tradition and light. In Portugal you have time, space and
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